From Tynecastle to AZ Picerno’s compact Stadio Donato Curio, it’s my journey from my first cancha to number four hundred.
I was doubtlessly lifted over the turnstiles as a wee lad, certainly for that first match in October 1982 for a match-up between Hearts and Arbroath. I have no idea when getting ‘lifted over’ stopped being a thing. It has been gone a lot of years for sure.
So, once more in an October, a mere 53 years later, in order to secure the 400, I must approach a steward in the street outside the stadium in Picerno tomorrow. There will only be one, apparently, but he has a brief with my name of it. The price of it remains a mystery, but he won’t give change?!
The Basilicata club, a tiddler in truth, aided by a local, made good in the USA, have been punching above their weight for a number of campaigns, and managing it relatively easily. It’s all the more remarkable for a village, essentially with a population of 5,576, with the stadium holding 1,600, which seems set in a lovely setting. It just slightly bigger than Virtus Verona, though!
The start of the ’25/26 campaign has been more of a struggle, but that’s based on lofty expectations because they are still not drastically in decline. I wrongly assumed it wouldn’t be an undue issue getting a ticket, but how wrong that has proven to be.
In order to get a near to full ground, Picerno decided to offer 4 kids tickets free with every adult, thereby rendering the online platform redundant, save for the away section, where, as I write, I am still tempted to buy, ‘just in case’. I would be cheering for Casertana anyway, albeit quietly. I am fully aware that this is Italy, and pretty much anything that can go wrong, will. Plus, lucky me, essentially a children’s crèche of a game!
I will forever be indebted to my great friend Fabrizio from Livorno, who took time out of his busy schedule to contact the club and lobby on my behalf. His efforts have facilitated this curious arrangement to allow me to snag a ticket.
One solitary steward should be easily spotted, but let’s see. I have in my mind I need dark glasses, a newspaper tucked under my arm whilst wearing a raincoat, and as I approach, saying “the bears are shitting in Potenza”, which might release my ticket, clandestinely, obviously! I have seen too much Python in my life. There is humour in any scenario by virtue.
It has been documented before that I am not a groundhopper perse. It’s the love of the game that keeps my fascination going, even if parts of that are being gradually eroded away. Here in Italy, both the vibrant atmosphere and the pleasure of bringing its quirks, colour, and passion to a wider audience is what I enjoy most. Somehow, it makes it all feel all the more worthwhile. Until I got seriously involved with Football Weekends magazine, I was happy merely pitching up to watch Ancona or Cesena play at best a couple of times a campaign. Now, the whole adventure has grown arms and legs, as well as, I hope, some entertaining words. To steal a line, received as I am write, “living the life of luxury, you digital nomad”, thanks Richard, I like that.
Rarely will I visit a ground and think, this is it, I’ll never be back. In the case of an uncomfortable night at Ascoli, that sentiment was true, though!
Given that on this lengthy Italian trek, I ticked up the mere morsel of my 50th game of the season; then more impressively notched a more worthy landmark of 2,500 in Catanzaro two weeks ago tonight, and now, steward et al willing tomorrow, another fine round number arrives in Picerno of all places.
I designated my 60th year to be a year of celebrating life, and 9 months on, I think I am doing true justice to that notion. My dear old mum would be proud. We only get one shot at this game called life, so live it now is my mantra.
I guess 400 stadia in just over 2,500 games isn’t a groundhopper ratio. I do confess, though, as I saw this number edging closer I did maybe for the first time in my life, consciously squeeze in an extra couple of new grounds in Scotland to make sure the four hundredth was here in Italy.
By the time I leave on 21st October, it will be sitting on 402, but if I never make 500, I won’t be crying in my sleep. Futbology is a nice place to record games, and without it, I wouldn’t have a clue. However, it computates on your behalf, giving the opportunity to celebrate a little landmarks like this one.
My issue getting a ticket for Picerno reminds me of two previous similar silly scenarios. In the Netherlands, Volendam only accepts Dutch credit cards. They were going to allegedly leave a ticket at the sales box, but I got nervous, and my friend Joris eased the burden by using his Dutch card to help.
In Valencia, Levante wanted a full stadium for the visit of promotion rivals Alaves and had no public sale. Season ticket holders could bring along friends for free. I decided to go and keep an eye out for a tout, as I knew someone would be at it. Despite paying double the going rate I was in. If he only sold 2 of 7 tickets that he held (as 5 empty seats beside us), the exercise was futile. Obviously, in Kobe and Leipzig, our World Cup games came via touts at silly prices, but we couldn’t go to the Far East, especially and not see a game. I am officially done with World Cup Finals now. I will retire on five, which is a shame, really, as come El Centenario opening the 2030 edition, I had dreamed of going. But to give the home of football one sodding game, just so, lo and behold come 2034 we’re back in the Middle East. It’s the Fifa equivalent of the Futbology cheats. “Today I feel….”. Infantino has sold himself to money and greed.
Of all the cities I have watched football, I have been to more grounds in Montevideo than any other, with 14 of my 16 canchas in the country, in the capital. Greater Buenos Aires, that enormous beast of an area has 15, but it’s not a city as such. Montevideo is especially a city that lives in my heart, and while it’s been 10 years now, I will be back. Somehow, 15 games in the Centenario still isn’t enough, even though I know it’s used a lot more sparingly these days.
My best stadium in the 400 is easy, El Cilindro in Avellaneda, home to the mighty Racing Club. When it’s full and bouncing, nothing quite compares. The first of 8 games in the stadium I have had the pleasure watching was in February 2000, with raucous fans from both sides present in a game versus Boca. It left an indelible mark. I will always love watching Racing.
Perhaps the one cancha I would love to visit again when it is as near to full as possible would be the Azteca in Mexico City. It had a wow factor to it. However, the 5,000 Atlante fans were lost in its midst, even if a flag waving strawberry blonde lass riding a horse down the touchline when they scored was one of the most remarkable things I have seen at a football stadium.
My proudest visit was to Suduroy in the Faroe Islands, where I finally saw one of the first clubs anywhere in the world I have followed for decades, TB Tvoroyri. I saw them play at home and win. It is such a wonderful island, for now the last one requiring a boat for access.
The Marakana, Beograd is quite something too. Being there when Serbia played Croatia in the 2013 WC qualification phase was something I will never forget. There might have been no away fans, but you could cut the atmosphere with a knife.
The crucial thing for me is, and it might be a cliché, but people make places. No matter who they are, as long as they add to the experience, that’s all that matters. Grounds come in many styles and sizes. The vacuum packed, clone style designs of bigger teams’ homes these days are tedious. We want quirky, maybe even a little rundown, and heaps of character. As football at the top end loses itself to the devil, raise a glass to, or shake the hand of, any number of dedicated folk, whose passion and artistry keep small clubs and venues alive.
These wanderings of my mind ahead of my pre 400th ground have been written in a notebook on the waters edge across the bay from the main hub of Brindisi. A place I love, and that has nothing to do with football. Somehow, it chose me, and I have been coming back post covid time and again. This relaxed area, the great bay of Brindisi, like a stadium in a way, is a great place to write, find peace, and just enjoy. It will continue to call me back.
For the record, my top 5 visited lands and stadiums
1- Scotland 155 stadia
2- Italy 91 (in less than 4 weeks, 94- can I get 6 more in 25/26 and tuck away another landmark? The I’s have it, unlock :).
3- England 64
4- Argentina 17
5- Uruguay 16
I am drivelling on now. The Aperol has kicked in! If I make it to 500, someone please take me out the back and shoot me. Let’s drink to football, the good parts anyway.
Brindisi 10th October 2025
Football Adventures with James Rendall 