Basilicata, baby!

Basilicata is one of the last four regions of Italy (20 in total) where I hadn’t watched a game. Indeed, prior to this trip, I hadn’t even set foot in any of the four missing places, let alone seen a game. Yet, like buses, you wait 38 years, and two games come along together to tick Basilicata well and truly off the roster.

Matera was always the dream venue in Basilicata for me. The ancient hilltop city, with its cave dwellings in rock faces, is one of the oldest known habited places in Europe. It was brought to a wider audience by the last James Bond film, No Time to Die, where its opening sequences included a spectacular car chase around impossible tight streets. Alas, a catalogue of abandoned attempts on my part meant it wasn’t until this trip I finally stepped out in this absolutely incredible old city, sods law, the year they have no team!

Matera Calcio, who have had a troubled decade or more, have gone completely into abeyance for 2025/26. They had been doing relatively well in Serie D, but it wasn’t enough to save them from financial ruin. Instead of hastily putting the club in the hands of another rogue operator, the city council, who now hold the titles, will await a serious buyer, with a hope of restoring the club onto a proper footing.  

A few seasons ago, when Serie C was accessible from the UK for online perusal, I astonishingly watched the previous demise of this once proud club. The lights were on, and the camera was rolling for an expectant match versus Siracusa, if I recall correctly. Time dragged on, nothing was happening, and even the commentator wasn’t telling us anything. Then a man walked by, pulled the corner flags out of the ground, and the lights went out. Matera failed to fulfil that fixture and went bust! All the locals obviously knew, as no one was in the stands. It was an eerie watch, if slightly confusing due to the silence from the commentary booth.

POTENZA

Further north and east in the region sits the capital Potenza, population 63,389. If I thought Catanzaro, the Calabrian capital, was high, the Basilicatan equivalent is more than double the height at 819m. I acknowledge it’s a number that will still make a Bolivian giggle, but in Europe, it’s quite high. At first sight, looking up, once outside the train station, it really is a resplendent sight.

En route to my hotel, with time to kill, I sat on a bench by the river down in the valley, looking up and contemplating whether Potenza is potentially the hilly capital of Italy. Ancona, Arezzo, and Gubbio are all mere pretenders. Perugia is a challenge, as is Frosinone, but Catanzaro trumps them. So, I would set off to discover the next morning answer my own question.

It should be said that I chose my hotel loosely based on the notion that no uphill climb would be required to check in. That was the prudent part, but halfway along a near 3 km walk, almost as straight as they come, the pavement disappears, and at certain times of the day, it’s an extremely busy thoroughfare. Then, lo and behold, it’s up and over a motorway, using the edge of slip roads for walking! The blurb didn’t suggest my 4 star accommodation was doubling up as Travelodge, complete with a service station, which was needed to be negotiated to arrive at reception. The Latina team were squirrelled away within its midst, spotted on match day morning having an altogether higher carb breakfast than was available to us mere mortals.

Had the Latina coach wished, he could have sent the squad on a hike with me to the giddy top of Potenza. It really was an unrelenting 40-minute trek. Up and up, circling around like a passage of one of Lars Von Trier’s infuriating films, where Bjork sings her way up the side of an enormous wedding cake to be hung! It’s not a city for the unfit for sure.

High plateau Potenza is its Centro Storico. If negotiated in a straight line, it is largely flat. However, venture a few metres off Via Pretoria, and you’ll be heading down again. Having made it to the top, you want to be careful and make sure no more uphill trauma will spoil your day. Nudging off the flat central street almost brings howls of derision from the calf muscles, amongst others!

Having reached the summit, I wasn’t for edging down until it was time to head to the game. The buildings in the centre have some age, but Potenza doesn’t sit anywhere near the top fifty città worthy of a peek. Even the taxi driver to Picerno acknowledged tourism isn’t really a thing.

The real jawdropping sights are from the valley looking up at Potenza. From down there, it just looks like a spectacular collection of modern apartment blocks. Every one of them a feat of engineering, clinging to the hillside, almost creating an art instillation. The old buildings up in the centre are hidden from view as you look up. Indeed, at one end of the flat top plateau is Torre Guevara, an old tower that has been lovingly restored. But it’s the name that reminds me of an iconic revolutionary. El Che liked to lead a campaign, well walking from the valley to here, feels like one!

Potenza would have been a fortress, easily defended back in the day. However, ancient Potentia, as it was known, was considerably lower down the valley. The battle of Metaurus here marked the end of the Carthaginians’ aspirations in Italy, re-taken the Romans, and they reduced the city effectively to being a military outpost.  

The Neapolitan Republic of 1799 saw Potenza become the first city to rebel against the King and was conquered by the French 7 years later. A third revolt in 1848 was put down by the Bourbons, but a third devastating earthquake and one last revolt eroded the French position before Garibaldi’s army trotted in and brought the city into the newly unified realm of Italy. Potenza would suffer horrendous bombing in WWII, and most recently, in 1980, when it was struck by another strong earthquake, causing significant damage once more. 

The local football team, Potenza Calcio, are a third tier side these days. They have been a Serie C outfit for eight seasons now and are doing rather nicely. Whether they can emulate the heroes of 1964/65 when they briefly hit Serie B, time will tell. However, even coming from such a low base i Leoni (the lions) as they are known, their history is more checkered than a Croatian International football shirt!

Football started out in 1919 in the city, with Potenza SC, a stalwart of Serie D, but as usual, we are into the 80’s before anything shook the boat. The fourth coming in June 2012, saw a brave merger of two regional Prima Categoria clubs, the 7th level, (Controsenso Potenza and Atella Monticchio) to form FCB Rossoblu Potenza, which was subsequently reduced to the name we see today. The pulling of resources from two amateur clubs might not have seemed at the time to be the catalyst for propelling the club and the city into loftier (no pun intended) slots than it had previously known, but that is exactly what has happened. 

The Potenza journey proved so inspirational, local rivals from Picerno, just up the road, followed them in Serie C in 2019/20, where they initially had to groundshare with Potenza, before just getting over the acceptable line for the third tier with a 1,600 capacity stadium of their own in the picturesque village 20 kilometres from the Basilicata capital.

The curious thing is that both clubs play in red and dark blue stripes or halves, depending on which way the wind is blowing in any given season. That said, despite the demise of Matera, who would have once had the claim to be the best team in Basilicata, Potenza and Picerno are keeping the regional flag flying with considerable pride as both regularly make the end of season promotion play-off slots. Judging by stickers on lampposts all over Potenza, Matera are the big rivals. Picerno is like a little brother and covered in greater length later.

Stadio Alfredo Viviani in Potenza, capacity 5,500 is hewn out of a piece of flat land three quarters of the way down from the centre, where all roads outside continue to go steeply up and down. Yet, the Viviani is a flat haven in a maelstrom of slopes. Getting to the venue is, of course, a challenge in itself. Potenza is almost like real-life snakes and ladders in terms of progress to any defined point. All I can say is, while you can see glimpses of the ground as you nudge down, the closer you get, it disappears from view for lengthy periods. I would recommend using Google maps. It will be your best friend in this maze.

On a balmy early autumn Sunday, it was a very hot afternoon for a game. Not hot enough for a drinks break, or indeed for the now ready for winter mode of Italians, who were found openly gawping at my brazen short sleeve look up in the city!

The game was a slight disappointment, but I know what Latina are like, and they are well drilled in the art of keeping things tight. Surviving in C is the name of the game for them, and they do it time and time again, but its not a great watch. Potenza didn’t need me to point things out, and they knew what was in front of them. They had the vast majority of the ball and possession. Had a penalty been scored midway through the first half, Latina, in their exquisite almost Venetian artwork away shirt, would have required to alter the plan. As it was, their keeper saved it easily, and pretty much everything else Potenza could muster, but in truth, it was half chances at best. Indeed, the visitors from Lazio nearly nicked it at the end. But we would end as we started at 0-0.

After the match, like some sort of sadist, having been sitting for 2 hours, I decided to re-trace my steps back up into the city and enjoy it all one last time. I especially knew once I was headed back down the hill to my hotel, pacing down slopes I had lugged up in the morning, it was payback. Potenza really is a punishing city, but it is worth every step.

Curiously, I didn’t see one single bus all day. As to whether they run on a Sunday, I am unsure. Escalators can be found in the railway station area heading up, but like the bus thing, they seemed closed too. Keep fit Sunday in Potenza, job done. I will sleep well after all the exercise.

PICERNO

By contrast, along the road (20 kilometres) is the previously mentioned Picerno, which is essentially just a village. With a population of less than 6,000, we salute the community for being able to sustain a third tier side. There is nothing of note in Picerno, but the aesthetic as you approach, and the view from the ground are quite spectacular. As you look upwards, yet again (it’s a thing in Basilicata), but not as high as its near neighbour, it’s an inspiring sight. Picerno is most likely a commuter town for working in the big apple of Potenza. 

If the likes of Ross County from even smaller Dingwall (population around 5,000) can reach the Scottish top flight, why can’t Picerno host professional Italian football. Both are heavily subsidised by a money man. In the case of Picerno, it is Donato Curcio, who emigrated to the USA in the 1950’s. The club was only founded in 1973, and I believe that was courtesy of a significant investment from Donato to get a “proper” football ground in the village. As the club rose through the ranks, he aided the re-construction to get the stadium, now named after him, a Serie C license, as well as starting to invest directly to make sure the playing staff were of a quality to compete.

Aside from relegation in their first C campaign of 2019/20, they immediately bounced back and, in truth haven’t struggled to retain their place since. Indeed, they have reached a variety of promotion play-off matches in different seasons subsequently. The derby with Potenza has been played just 13 times, with the capital boys winning 8, drawing 4, but on 13th November 2023, little Picerno finally gave them a bloody nose, winning 3-1 at home. It’s a game that will mean more to Picerno, as bigger Potenza will always enjoy being at a higher level than Matera.

The Curcio stadium, with a 1,600 capacity, is compact as you would expect, with a stand almost dug into the hillside looking down from a lofty vantage on the play. The away section immediately reminded me of corner units for a lavish Subbuteo arena. Two sides are surrounded by trees, giving shelter, but the views of the village behind one goal, and the rolling hillsides and mountains opposite are fabulous.

My perennial “away” day boys Casertana were down from Campania for this one, yet another dark blue and red striped brigade. It’s a thing in Italy, along with maroon. It would be my 5th Casertana away day in 4 seasons, a sixth game in all, where incredibly every viewing has been in a different region! I have now officially rinsed all options for Casertana in their present regional third tier setting.

Getting a ticket for this one was tricky, but I am forever in the debt of my buddy Fabrizio, who picked up the phone and called Picerno. It seemed they were making some kind of offer that would preclude an online sale. Thankfully, he was successful, even if the method of the transaction was rather odd. My details were input onto a ticket, as ever in Italy. It was then left with the steward, and I would give him the money in exchange. It was certainly unusual, and despite my reservations, it worked out perfectly. This would be my 400th stadium in the world. The view from inside the Curcio made it all seem worthwhile.

It was a terrific game, too. Casertana, who I was favouring, had me long after after the match scratching the grey matter at the back of my brain, trying to recollect if I had seen a quicker goal. The Campania side led just after the 15-second mark from a well drilled shot. It stunned the crowd and happened so fast I was still fuming that Picerno ran out to a blast of Boca drums and fans singing coming over the tannoy!

Picerno had plenty of possession, but Casertana were the more effective unit. They went 2 up midway through the first half, and on their third foray into the box, they managed to hit the post when scoring seemed easier. The pattern continued in the second half, with Casertana choosing when to counter. After the match, their coach said it was the first time he felt like the team were set up properly, and he never felt Picerno could score. It was easy to say that in hindsight, but he was correct. Five wins and a draw in my six Casertana games, they should ask me back more often!

While the match was played out with nothing but respect and a buoyant atmosphere, especially from the visiting fans, did the Caserta Ultras know they had an appointment on the road home, or was it just a horrible coincidence? Alas, with Catania fans headed back to Sicily from near Napoli and Casertana fans sweeping north, it saw them encounter one another, where sadly, horrific scenes of violence ensued. It all seemed a million miles away from what unfolded in Picerno.

Basilicata is a huge region, but compared to most others, it’s not densely populated. Aside from Matera and possibly the temples at Mettaponto, tourists merely pass through. However, both Potenza and even Picerno are worthy of a visit. I stayed in Potenza and arranged a taxi in and out of Picerno, partly due to time constraints going, but on the way back to avoid substitute buses, that were temporarily replacing the trains, and in Italy, I don’t trust buses. I enjoyed these days in the region. I have no doubt I will return, especially to see a game in Matera and also to Potenza. It just got me somehow. Maybe you’ll give it a go one day yourself.