A skip through the travel needs and teams on the fabulous Atlantic island archipelago, due for publication in Football Weekends by the end of February to coincide with the start of the 2021 campaign with the hope Foroyar might be one of the “safe” places to visit post vaccine .
At the start of this pandemic in March last year, with an almost total shutdown in football across the globe, for the Faroese authorities it merely delayed the start of the season. When they emerged from the worst of the virus and were ready for the big kick off, only Belarus was playing in Europe at the time. It helped new TV deals to be signed, especially with Norway as the world was craving some relief from incessant bad news. Inadvertently the crisis helped put Faroes football on the map, with new fans picking up on the curiosities of the club names and fabulous venues. Indeed, only 2 or 3 rounds of matches were played without fans at various points in the campaign, and hearing a proper crowd and seeing smiling faces without masks was very refreshing. The progressive nature of the Faroes means that all matches in the top flight are available on pay per view (£5 a game), with one game free per round. I have never watched as many games with my beloved TB as happened last year, and while it was a struggle and not pretty at times, every goal was cheered loudly down here in Edinburgh.
My city is luckily one of the scheduled destinations of Atlantic’s flights (although largely just May to September), and from Edinburgh the flight time is just over an hour. The Faroes are in the same time zone as the UK too, and whether you like it or not, they are another island group that voted to come out of the EU. I had made plans for a return to football up there in mid September but sensibly arranged accommodation well ahead of departure with free cancellation. The problem wasn’t the lack of action on the islands, it was getting there. The Faroese national carrier Atlantic Airways were only proposing to put flights on from anywhere other than Copenhagen in October, which caused me to cancel. It might still have been plausible but it was edging into the realm of more darkness than light, and as to whether flights from Edinburgh ever started is debatable (I forgot to check), as rightly the small community up there (population 50,000) were nervous of more imported cases of Covid. However, as the Faroese football family now take a well earned rest over the winter, having only finished the 2020 season in late November, with the Cup Final in December, I have a return to these sumptuous islands pencilled in for May/June (or later if need be) as one of the first “safe” places to get back to viewing the beautiful game, and if you have never been up to the Faroe Islands, you won’t find more stunning views to catch a game or three!
If all is running on “normal” timings the top two leagues will start up again in early March (winter on the Faroes isn’t so bad being an island close to the warm currents of the North Atlantic drift), with the lower leagues commencing in April. Essentially there are three leagues of ten teams as the core of the set up, with a fourth tier featuring a hotchpotch of whatever is left. Only first teams can participate in the top flight (Betridelidn), but reserves can compete in the second division (Deild I), and “thirds” can be found no higher than Deild II, the third tier. The cash from European football has gradually been causing a chasm between the top sides and the rest. The top league has been split 5 and 5 between the “haves”, and the “not quite haves” for a few season’s now. That Euro prize money has even seen the reserve sides of these clubs start to dominate the second tier too. In 2019 no team was promoted as the reserve sides occupied the top 4 places for the first ever time. A rule change was introduced to avoid that occurence again, with the highest “first” team going up automatically and the second best “first” side having a crack at 9th from the top division in a play off. This was hugely successful for 3rd placed 07 Vestur Sorvagur and 4th placed B68 Toftir who overcame AB Argir in an entertaining play off to finally get back to the top table. The return to the top league might just have been perfectly timed by B68 as Toftir is now just ten minutes through an undersea tunnel from the capital, instead of being well over an hour of journeying around the islands to get there. The latest “connecting” undersea tunnel just opened in December, making it three such tunnels on the islands (be aware they aren’t free), but this one comes complete with an undersea roundabout as it connects Skala and Toftir/Runavik to the capital Torshavn. These little settlements have essentially become commuter villages now, and the ability to entice players to play away from the capital has just got easier, which is why B68 might have a great 2021 return.
If you are headed to the Faroe Islands, the new tunnel has probably made Torshavn even more the number spot to base yourself, especially if time is limited. The other settlements are much smaller and have limited amenities such as restaurants, bars or even shops, aside from local grocery shops etc. In the capital you’ll find a lively atmosphere and an abundance of places to eat and drink. It is also the place to get the ferry to Suduroy if you are being more ambitious and heading south on the two hours sail to see TB Tvoroyri, FC Suduroy from Vagur (back in the second tier) and Royn from Hvalba (third tier), who have the only remaining grass pitch!
The regular Euro representatives come from the “big” five; HB (League and Cup double winners in 2020); B36 (who share the Gundadalur stadium in Torshavn with HB); KI Klaksvik (2019 champions and reached the Europa League Play off round in 2020, as well as being the second biggest village at 5,000) is two undersea tunnels from the capital if you go the direct route now, and you’ll pass by the other two teams, NSI Runavik is just around the corner from Toftir and a little further along you will find Vikingur from Nordgota. I would recommend trying to see match ups between these five or the five other clubs, as very often these big clubs thrash the other five, and 0,7 away wins aren’t uncommon sadly.
The “other” five start with the aforementioned newly promoted sides B68 Toftir, and 07 Vestur, who are just five minutes down the hill from the airport on Vagar island at Sorvagur. EB/Streymur (who are a merged side that used to compete at the top end of the league) play in the picturesque village of Eidi or Streymnes, make sure to check which before journeying. IF from Fuglafjordur is just a little beyond Nordgota and has one of the most stunning locations for a football ground. TB Tvoroyri on the island of Suduroy is the only one you need a ferry to watch a game in the top flight, but it is possible to head south and return on the day of a game (probably with the visiting team), with the stadium just a twenty minute walk from the terminal, but this is a beautiful island and a weekend of Suduroy truly is a treat.
In the second tier you’ll find AB Argir, a suburb of Torshavn, with it’s two other suburban clubs FC Hoyvik and Undrii FF sharing a ground for now in Hoyvik, both are in the third tier. The only other teams are Skala, now very close to the capital, MB Midvagur (you’ll pass through it shortly after the airport), with ferry requirements to get to Sandoy (a 30 minute ferry from Gamlaraett which is 20 minutes from the capital to Skopun on the island) for second tier B71 Sandur games, as well as aforementioned lower tier duo on Suduroy.
The islands are absolutely stunning, with some of the steepest green mountain slopes you’ll see anywhere. Have a stop off in Leirvik and marvel at how such an isolated community lives with the most stunning views. Hiring a car is recommended unless you are going to take the bus to Torshavn and stay local. Be warned, nothing is very cheap up here, and car hire is very expensive unless a few of you are sharing the costs.
Tickets are never a problem bought upon entering the stadium on the day. Some of the clubs also produce a programme for the collectors out there.
Away from the football, Saksun, Gasadalur waterfall (turn left at the airport exit and go there first if you have time and daylight. It will act as a gentle introduction to a single track tunnel!), Kallur lighthouse (boat from Klaksvik to Kalsoy), and the picturesque traditional fishing village at Gjogv are all worth seeing, as well as Famjin and Akraberg on Suduroy. A rare mix of the freshest air, culture and football await, with cuisine a possible additional bonus especially if you like fish, but don’t ask me to try whale, which isn’t on any menu!
Football Adventures with James Rendall 